Ramen from Scratch

Let's cook

1. 1

   Parboil the bones

   Cover the bones with cold water, boil hard for 10 minutes, then drain and scrub each one clean. Wash the pot too.

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   This removes the scum and blood that would otherwise make the broth grey and gritty.

2. 2

   Boil hard for the broth

   Return the bones with fresh water, the onion, garlic, and ginger. Unlike most stocks, tonkotsu wants a rolling boil — that is what emulsifies the fat and collagen into a white, creamy broth. Boil 3 hours, topping up water.

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   Rolling boil, not a simmer. This is the opposite of every other stock.

3. 3

   Braise the chashu

   Simmer the rolled pork belly in the soy sauce, mirin, sake, sugar, and a cup of water for 90 minutes, turning occasionally. Cool in the liquid, then chill before slicing.

4. 4

   Make the tare and eggs

   Reserve half a cup of the chashu braising liquid as tare. Soft-boil the eggs for 6.5 minutes, ice them, peel, and marinate in the rest of the liquid for at least 4 hours.

5. 5

   Strain and season

   Strain the broth. Season each bowl individually with 2–3 tablespoons of tare rather than salting the whole pot.

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   Tare in the bowl, not the pot — that is how ramen shops control seasoning.

6. 6

   Assemble fast

   Cook the noodles for 90 seconds, drain very well, and put them into bowls with tare and hot broth. Top with sliced chashu, halved egg, scallions, bamboo, and nori. Serve immediately.

Nutrition & Safety